For Better or For Worse

Due to a very poorly planned new addition, this small master bathroom was literally just slapped together in order to make a shower, vanity, and toilet fit.   But with the revamping of the whole house floor plan, we were able to utilize the original master bath space along with two hallways to make this modern farmhouse master bathroom remodel with two walk in closets, separate vanities, a tub, toilet and shelving.

modern farmhouse master bathroom separate vanities

before bathroom remodel

To add storage, we created a built in shelving unit in between the shower and the toilet.  The space there would have been dead space so obviously it was perfect to add extra storage.

bathroom storage bathroom open shelving

Instead of traditional shower doors, the homeowners opted for a half glass wall.  This is much easier to clean and less of a hassle than sliding glass doors or frameless doors.  Stacking niches gives plenty of storage for all of his and her shower necessities and also keeps one shelf within reach during a bath.

tub with glass enclosure

Planning a master bathroom from scratch is a lot of fun.  There are so many bells and whistles in the plumbing world that when it comes to spending, the sky is the limit.  If you are planning a bathroom remodel, make a wish list and prioritize.  The wish list for this bathroom was a separate soaker tub and walk in shower as well as two sinks and separate closets.  Since we couldn’t fit it all in without creating a hodge podge mess, they gave up the soaker tub which allowed for more needed closet space.

What’s on your master bathroom wish list?

  • Large walk in shower with multiple shower heads and body sprayers?
  • Double sinks
  • claw foot tub
  • floor heating system
  • separate water closet room with a bidet
  • custom tile
  • heated towel bar
  • vessel sinks and wall mount faucets
  • mirror with a concealed television

View more on this remodel by clicking the photos below!

 kitchen remodel white shaker cabinets viscount white granite gray subway tile

Winter Watercolor Scenes Farmhouse Style!

I love to change my artwork out with the seasons and holidays so I created these winter watercolor scenes.  Since I still love farmhouse style and fixer upper, I was inspired to create farmhouse style winter art with lots of white and vintage scenes!   These 4 different farmhouse style winter prints will look perfect through the Christmas season and can also be left out through winter!  Enjoy the winter train watercolor tutorial!

winter covered bridge watercolor art fixer upper style  winter horses farmhouse style winter art

winter train watercolor tutorial  winter trees farmhouse style winter prints

Visit my shop for a download or to order a print!

Or… if you are feeling like tackling a fun water color project, check out how I painted the train!

Rustic Crate Christmas Tree Skirt

tree skirt crate

A rustic, farmhouse Christmas tree needs more than just a traditional tree skirt!  So I came up with a 3 sided vintage crate this year!  Enjoy the plans!

What you  need for this project:

Materials
(3) 1 x 4 x 60 – cut into 16 -20″ sections depending on your tree skirt.  You want them an inch larger.
(1) 2 x 2 x 48 – cut into 10 1/2″ sections
(36) 1 1/2″ self tapping screws (kreg jig screws)
white paint
gray and forest gree acrylic paints
220 grit sanpaper
antiquing wax
large bowl or 5 gallon bucket

carbon paper

Tools:
miter saw
kreg jig
tape measure
orbital sander

paint brush for acrylic paint

drill pocket holes

Cut all pieces to length.  Drill two pocket holes on each end.

Screw boards into the 2×2 keeping the back of the boards even with the back of your 2×2.  You can use a scrap board to raise the height if needed.

Once it’s all screwed together, sand with 220 grit sandpaper.

Add a coat of 2 of white paint.  Sand again with 220 grit paper after it’s dry.

Place a bucket or punch bowl upside down on the front of your crate.  Very lightly trace a half circle.

Tape “Joy to the World” Print out around the circle.  Use a piece of carbon paper to to tranfer the letters to the wood.

get ready to paint

Paint the letters in gray.  Add a green snowy tree to the center.  If you aren’t artistic, you can paint something simpler like a star or a silhouette.

Sand and add antiquing glaze.

 

Hydrangeas in a Mason Jar

Materials:
Watercolor Paper (I used 300lb)
Watercolor Paint
Supplies:
Watercolor Brushes
Cup of water
cotton cloth
palette
pencil
Disclosure: This post includes affiliate links, which means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase through my links. There is no extra cost to you. Purchasing through my affiliate links help support my website so I am able to continue posting free content.
First, paint the mason jar.

Second, paint the hydrangeas.

Third, the details!

Rustic Crate Tutorial

Tools:
Table Saw
Mitersaw (optional)
Brad nailer
hammer
(4) 2′ clamps
Orbital Sander
Materials:
(6) 1 x 4 x 13 palette wood is fine
(9) 1 x 4 x 19 palette wood is fine
(1) 2 x 2 x 4′
220 grit sandpaper
satin polyurethane spray
wood glue
1″ brad nails

Disclosure: This post includes affiliate links, which means I receive a small commission if you make a purchase through my links. There is no extra cost to you. Purchasing through my affiliate links help support my website so I am able to continue posting free content.

Gather your materials. Cut all boards to length on a table saw or miter saw. Sand fronts, backs, and edges with 220 grit sandpaper.


Glue and Clamp the end grain of the long sides to the inside edge of the short sides. If you don’t have many clamps, allow to dry for at least a half hour before releasing.

Glue and nail the 3 remaining long pieces to the bottom of one of the dried squares.

Cut 2 x 2 into (4) 12″ sections. Rip diagonally on the table saw. Sand all sides
Glue and nail the split 2×2 into base of the crate. Apply glue to the corners of the second piece. Slide it onto the split 2 x 2’s. Apply glue to the 3rd piece and nail flush to the top of the 2×2’s. Center the middle and nail into place. Scrape off glue and allow to dry. Spray with polyurethane. Allow to dry. Enjoy!

Cooked to Perfection

modern farmhouse kitchen remodel

With the love for modern farmhouse kitchens, white shaker cabinets were an easy decision for this kitchen remodel.  We found beautiful slabs of viscount white granite at our local granite yard which served as a focal point on the large island.  Since the granite didn’t have a pure white color in it, we broke up the white with gray glass subway tile and tied the color into a painted deep gray island.   A stainless steel farm sink was chosen over a cast iron white farm sink for it’s sleek modern look.   And modern, linear, brushed nickel cabinet pulls were installed on all the doors and drawers.  To give this kitchen a nice base, medium gray laminate flooring was installed throughout the home.  But it wasn’t always this beautiful!

This house was originally purchased by the homeowners as an investment, the kitchen was remodeled with a low grade, stock cabinetry and laminate countertops.  But when the homeowners decided that the location and the view made the property worth keeping for themselves, they decided to invest a little bit more money into the finishes and embark on a full home remodel creating the modern farmhouse home of their dreams.

before and after kitchen remodel

First things first, we needed to work on the layout.  Very few people are interested in staring at a wall when they are washing dishes, so we relocated the sink and dishwasher to the island where the person washing dishes not only can be part of a conversation but also has two windows to look out.  Since refrigerators stick out 6-9″ past the cabinets, I relocated that to the back corner of the kitchen.

viscount white granite gray island

Relocating the refrigerator left a long wall of cabinetry with no appliances.  So we dressed up the wall a bit with an open shelf.  The kitchen didn’t lack storage by any means so leaving one open cabinet to display seasonal and farmhouse kitchen decor was ideal.

kitchen remodel open shelf staggered cabinets

All of the fun, farmhouse style kitchen decor add the final touches to this once dated kitchen creating the kitchen of these homeowners’ dreams!

white shaker cabinets viscount white granite gray backsplash tile

For more on this remodel, click the pictures below!

modern farmhouse livingroom  

A Marriage of Tastes


This late 1800’s farm house was in desperate need of an overhaul. Everything was torn out down to the studs, walls were removed, a new wall was built, doors were relocated and everything was put back together with a design that married a rustic style to a farmhouse style

Because the roof pitch over the kitchen was 2:12, in order to add can lighting easily, we built a tray ceiling. The housing units were easily installed and there was no need to worry about the lights heating the insulation and causing a fire. A step ceiling is also a fun way to add color or other elements into the space. In this case, we chose to adorn it with some barn siding.

I custom designed the island with an open shelf on the end and added farmhouse style legs to the corners.

And some custom art!

rooster painting

How to Build Custom Cabinets

I wanted the cabinets on each side of the fireplace to be the height of my mantle. Since my living room is small, keeping the cabinets and mantle the same height creates a clean line. And it also eliminates the need for shelving above the cabinets which I also thought would contribute to a busier look than I wanted.
The Design:
Flush Toe. I don’t need a toe kick. This isn’t a kitchen cabinet that I will be working at. Plus, I want it to look more like furniture.
Double doors: I want glass doors at the top so we are able to store our dish receiver, blue ray player etc and will still be able to use it with a remote. I want seedy glass so that everything inside is a little distorted. Seedy glass is about 6-8 x more costly than clear glass. Clear glass is around $3 sq/ft and seedy glass is about $18 sq/ft. There are things worth splurging on.
I wanted solid doors on the bottom to hide kids toys, games, my office stuff, and junk.
Adjustable Shelves: I wanted adjustable shelves in the bottom portion of the cabinet
Door Placement: I wanted the doors to all sit below the mantle. Our mantle is an 8″ thick barn beam. So instead of just having dead space above the cabinet, I made a last minute decision to turn the top into a hidden compartment. This will be perfect to hide Christmas and Easter gifts until the kids grow up and realize it’s there!
Determine the width, depth, and height of your cabinet. Cut the sides from 3/4″ plywood, deducting 3/4″ for the face frame.
Again, I am not doing a toe kick on this cabinet and I want the doors to sit above my base molding which is 5″. So I cut the first dado 3/4″ wide, 6″ above the bottom of my side panel. I wanted the top opening to be 12″ so I cut the second dado at 36″ high. Then I cut a 3/8 deep x 1/4″ rabbet on the back edge for the 1/4 plywood back panel.


I drew a vertical line in between the dado cuts 2 1/2″ from the edge on the inside front and inside back of the cabinet. Starting 9″ above the bottom dado, I put marks across the vertical line every 1 1/2″. Then used the drill press with a 3/8″ bit to drill 1/2″ into the wood to hold the pegs for my adjustable shelves.

Next, subtract 3/4″ from the width of your cabinet and cut your fixed shelves to width. Then subtract 1″ from the depth of your cabinet and cut your fixed shelves (the 1″ comes from the 3/4″ face frame and 1/4″ back panel. Spread plenty of glue into your dados and put your cabinet together. Make sure your cabinet is square and clamp front and back of each shelf. Check to make sure it’s square again. Cut the adjustable shelf to length by using your cabinet width – 1 1/2″ and deducting 1″ from the depth. Slide them into place while your cabinet dries.
Since it was a last minute decision to make the hidden compartment in the dead space of the top section, I glued and screwed a scrap 1×2 10″ down from the top. After it dried, I flipped the cabinet over and nailed 3/4″ plywood cut the same length and depth of my adjustable shelf to the bottom.
Then cut your frame. Stiles are vertical and rails are horizontal. Cut your rails first. Glue, clamp, and nail. Use blocks of wood under your clamp to keep the clamp from denting your wood. Check that they are level before you nail. Then measure and cut your stiles. Glue, clamp, and nail. Cut your back out of 1/4 plywood or luan. Glue and nail it into place.
Sand the cabinet and adjustable shelves with 120 grit paper. Fill the nail holes. Sand again with 220 grit paper. Shop vac the dust out and wipe it down with a lint free cloth and mineral spirits.
Prime. If you don’t have a sprayer, use a can of spray primer to for the holes and a foam roller for the rest. Sand again after it dries with 220 grit paper. Shop vac again and wipe down with a damp cloth again.
I love Sherwin Williams Proclassic Paint for my cabinetry. It dries smooth and hard so it gives a nice professional finish. (see my recommended paint brands here) Foam roller and paint brush — sand with 220 between coats. OR use a sprayer but still sand between coats.
Since these cabinets are fitting in between 2 walls and my house was built in the late 1800s, I deducted 1″ from the total width of my opening before I built the cabinet so that I would have plenty of room to make sure the cabinet was sitting level. (For new construction 1/2″ would be plenty.) Obviously, the brick that I am facing the fireplace with will cover the gap on the left, But the right side I will have to cut a trim piece special to close the gap. This IS expected in old houses. I also wanted to install the cabinets before I put the top and trim pieces on because I know the corner isn’t square and I want the pieces to fit snuggly. After the doors are installed, I’ll finish all the trimming.

For the top, you can either measure the width and depth needed and nail it on OR create a hinge top like I did here.
For the top, cut a 1×3 and a 1×12 length. Then cut into the edges for the butt hinges. Install the back piece with glue and nails. Attach the 1×12 to the installed 1×3 with the hinges. Drill a finger hole with a spade bit. Then cut another 1x? to length and width giving it a 1 1/2″ overhang. Add a 1×3 below it and if desired a piece or decorative trim. Since I’m building applied molding doors, I want this piece to tie the style of my doors to the cabinet. Then add a 1×6 to the bottom. This will bring the bottom of the cabinet out even with the doors. All of the top pieces were primed and painted and sanded before installation. Add filler to nail holes. Sand and paint.
I would typically use a piece of scribe molding to cover gaps between walls and cabinets, but in this case scribe molding won’t cover so I special cut a 1×2. I did have to take it back to the table saw a couple times to shave off a couple spots so that it would fit perfectly against the wall.

Repurposed Wood Flooring Tray

wood flooring tray

Throw Pillow Covers

Throw pillows are an easy way to add a pop of color to your decor. But for those of us who like to change out decor with the seasons and holidays, buying, let alone storing, them causes us to just purchase the ones that are neutral. Here’s an inexpensive and easy way to dress them up!

Measure the pillow you want to cover. Add 2″. Cut the fabric you are going to use for the front side of the pillow.

If your pillow is square, fold the fabric diagonally to make sure that your fabric is cut square.

For the back of your pillow cover, add 2″ to the width and 9″ to the length. (the 7″ is for two 1/2″ hems and 3″ overlap). Cut 1/3 of the fabric off. Hem both of the edges that you just cut.

Pin the right sides of the back and front fabric together and sew along edge on all four sides.

Clip all four corners careful not to cut into the seam.

Turn the pillowcase right side out.

Insert a pillow.